Portraits: Jae Fai

Jae Fai (เจ๊ไฝ) owner & chef at work at her eponymous Michelin star restaurant in Bangkok

Supinya Junsuta (สุภิญญา จันสุตะ), known to one and all as Jae Fai, took over her father's food cart and opened a shophouse restaurant in the Samran Rat district of Bangkok in the 1980's. Born in 1945, she works six days out of seven as the sole chef. After the first MICHELIN Guide Bangkok awarded her one star in 2018 she became a reluctant celebrity though she has been well known for a long time. In the 1990's, Bangkok Post food critic, the late Ung Aang Talay, dubbed her the "Mozart of the Noodle Pan". How right he was. Fai's speciality is a huge, fresh crab omlette (khai jiao poo), and drunken noodles (pad kee mao talay).

Raan Jae Fai, 327 Maha Chai Rd, Khwaeng Samran Rat, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10200, Thailand. +66 2 223 9384.